Racks, measure, and custom! Oh my!

So, you've done your research, you know what type of a suit you need.  You've even decided that you are going to need a certain number of shirts and ties to go along with it, and are ready for the next step... aren't you?

There are three major methods for purchasing your clothes: off the rack (OTR), made to measure (MTM), and custom.  There is also another method that you will see frequently called bespoke which we will also discuss.

The first and most important thing to understand here is this: THERE IS NO GOVERNING BODY THAT DETERMINES EXACTLY WHAT EACH ONE IS!  There is a fairly general consensus, and with technology the lines are blurred between things more and more.

1. OTR:
Off the rack is the simplest, most basic of methods for creating a garment.  It's also what most men are doing to make their clothing purchases.  These suits are made from a standard sized pattern, cut, created, and shipped out completely finished.  Then a retailer will put them out in their store and on a rack, where they can be purchased and usually altered to create a more optimal fit.  Simply put - go to a store, pick a suit, wear it out (pending alterations)  **easy analogy - paint by numbers; almost always the same picture in the end

2. MTM:
Made to measure is the next step along the purchasing scale.  A suit that is MTM is going to have some distinct advantages.  The customer's measurements are taken, and then the tailor will adjust the cuts and creation of the garment based on these measurements.  They still use a stock sized pattern, but adjust the garment before finishing it.  **easy analogy pt 2 - paint the picture (no color code), similar but more individual


3. CUSTOM:
Custom and MTM walk a very fine line.  Because of technology, a MTM garment can begin to sound eerily like custom.  Custom is typically done with a unique pattern being made for the individual using their measurements and usually pictures.  Then the garment is put together and finished per the specifications of the customer.  The key difference here is that custom starts from the measurements - not being adjusted after the pattern.  **easy analogy pt 3 - you tell the artist what you want the painting to be, then they create

4. BESPOKE:

This is the hardest one to differentiate.  When you read the idea of bespoke tailoring, it is almost a dead on to what I consider to be custom.  Literally meaning that the garment has "been spoken for," this is a truly unique garment being made to the exact specifications of a customer and their measurements.  It is typically accepted that the major point of difference is that a bespoke garment requires multiple fittings while being created.  Unique pattern + multiple fittings (prior to finishing)= bespoke.









Sooooooooooo......
Which is right for you?  Some of that will come down to your preferred price-point and when you need the clothing.  Understandably, each tier is typically more expensive (though depending on fabric, brand, etc that isn't always true) so a quick reference guide and please understand this is a general guide NOT the rule all the time:
OTR: price - $100 and up  time needed - up to a few days for alterations
MTM: price - $400 and up time needed - 2-4 weeks
Custom: price - $600 and up  time needed - typical 4-6 weeks (some offer 2-4)
Bespoke: price - $1500 and up  time needed - varies greatly sometime measured in months

Ask around, do your homework, and understand that like many things in life - you get what you pay for.


Sorry this one was longer guys!  Hopefully it was good info though and something worth looking at and sharing.  Keep reading and sharing!

How important can shoes really be?

I mean in all honesty, it can't be that big a deal, right?

Hopefully, by the time you're through this you'll understand how wrong that really is.

Let's start with the most obvious piece of this whole thing - when having a really nice scotch, do you pour it into a red solo cup?  If you answered yes, then you might be beyond saving anyway - any man should know that a good drink deserves the proper glass, so think of your shoes as the glass in this case.  Are you dressed impeccably in a well tailored suit, a crisp shirt on underneath, coordinating tie, and complimentary pocket square?  Then your shoes better fit the bill too!

You want to look for a couple things in particular with shoes: quality leather, quality construction, and toe shape.  Simply said a good shoe is going to cost some money - quality leather isn't cheap, and construction (they shouldn't be simply glued together) isn't easy.  Like everything else - invest in quality here on the shoes, they will last longer, look better, and be more comfortable over the long run. Make sure they are stitched to the sole of the shoe, and make sure the toe isn't too squared.

How much the shoes will cost varies greatly, but you should be expecting to pay north of $100 in almost any case.  Don't be shocked when prices jump quickly, and just understand that the difference in a expensive pair of shoes definitely exists for a reason.

At a bare minimum you need 1 good black pair and 1 good brown pair.  Once you have two solid fundamental then you can have some fun; and please, please, PLEASE get shoe trees!!!  they help preserve the shape of the shoe, and good cedar ones will keep them smelling fresh - $25 more that will help keep them looking better for much longer.

        

   

The most basic that every man should have (picture from allenedmonds.com)

Who ya gonna call?!

So I've realized the importance of bringing this up sooner rather than later.  While, my goal of Suitably Dressed is to help provide insight, basic knowledge, and some know how to the average man; I realize that I can only paint broad brush strokes.  When it comes down to who you should turn to in order to help ensure that you are getting exactly what your wardrobe needs, you need someone on your side.

While I work as a stylist with a custom clothing company, this is NOT a plug for me, or my company.  Simply said, you should be able to make some of the decisions for your wardrobe on your own, but you should also be working with someone who will keep your best interest at heart.  A good consultant will not simply be a salesman selling you a bunch of crap you don't need, but instead someone who will help stay on top of what you do need.

To think of this in another way, if you aren't a lawyer do you represent yourself in legal matters?  Do you do all of your own investment banking?  Do you self diagnose all of your ailments?  The honest answer here is NO!  You turn to professionals to help, so why should your wardrobe be any different?  We've already established the importance of a proper wardrobe for work and leisure.

So where do you get someone?  At this point, many of the retail stores out there are driven on customer service and helping work with people.  The plethora of custom and made to measure places will provide you with someone who should be able to help as well.  Honestly, I think you need to make sure it is someone you are comfortable with, and who you are confident in what they can provide you.  Ask a friend or coworker if they know someone and start there.

The entire point of this is that men need to change the way they look at the clothes on their back!  Working with someone should help you establish what you have, what you need, and most importantly things that you will look best in.  For a lot of men they turn to their wife, significant other, mistress, etc and simply ask yourself this - are they putting me in what I look best in, or things that they like?

Keep reading, keep sharing, and feel free to leave feedback - I love to hear people's thoughts!

Let's Talk About Socks Baby!

Ah socks... the undergarment for men that people actually see.  How important can socks really be?  Well, let's make it really easy - it can completely ruin an outfit when done wrong, and when done with a bit of flair can be a head turner.  They can easily become a conversation piece for good and bad.

Robert Griffin III wore some memorable socks that were talked about on Sportscenter the following day - (the Super Man socks).  Let's face it, they're worth taking a minute to think about and consider.  There are very easy and basic traditional rules if you want to take the conservative route; and they are in order of decision:

-match your pant color
-match your shoe color
-keep it solid and simple

Not too hard right?  It's easy, it won't offend anyone, and it's a safe as can be choice.  Just make sure you're spending a few extra bucks to ensure they are of a good material.  Your socks should cover your legs (no one wants your pant bottom to come up and show the forest of hair underneath) in mid-calf or over-calf length.  Typically a good cotton will run you a bit more, but will last you much longer.

There is another option as well... a slightly more... daring... option.  Recently, it has become popular to throw on loud colored socks in bright and bold patterns.  Definitely a bit more attention grabbing, and maybe something to be cautious about depending on who you are meeting with that day; but fun and a great way to add expression to the wardrobe!  Let's face it, men's fashion while important, isn't always the most exciting for someone who wants to express themselves.

Even if you go the more boisterous route - it's still important to have some good basics in your wardrobe as well.  I'll let you guess which one I prefer ;)

Hope you enjoyed, keep reading, keep sharing, I'll keep writing!

Why how you dress matters... A LOT!

There are a lot of people in our world who get dressed every day and put absolutely no thought into it.  When talking with people about the way they dress, I hear far too frequently "who cares? I don't care what other people think about me!"

I completely appreciate this train of thought.  In order to be a successful and happy person, you have to have self confidence and like yourself as you are.  That being said, anyone who thinks how you dress doesn't matter is only making their day harder on themselves.

The reality of our world is that people judge us based on how we look - if you don't pass the eye test, a lot of people won't give you a chance to get to your core content to impress them.  This applies in both our personal and professional lives.  Would you want someone to manage your money that looks like they can't afford a shirt without stains?  Would you want a lawyer to represent your best interest in sandals and shorts?

Then there is the distinct advantage of how you feel when you know you look good.  Think about your favorite shirt, it's probably not something that you look terrible in.  Some very real benefits that come with being well dressed are all part of a great cycle:

you look good -> you feel good -> people perceive you better -> you tend to be more productive -> you receive praise for your abilities ->you feel good

This isn't about dressing a certain way to advance your career (though you might), or get the girl (though it can't hurt), it's about feeling great about being you!  How you dress isn't the end all, but is certainly can't hurt.

Clothes that fit, ironed/pressed/folded, well made, patterns/colors that compliment - these are your keys.

Keep reading, I'll keep writing, and feel free to leave feedback and share if you know someone who might benefit  :)

Tie that Tie!

Alright, so it's an often asked question... how do you tie your tie?  To best answer this, I'm actually going to reference one of the best sources I've found on good ole Youtube.

The producer - Art of Manliness, really has the best most straightforward videos for knot tying:
Four-in-Hand
Half Windsor
Full Windsor
Bow Tie


So the ever important question - which knot should I tie?  The true and honest answer is whatever you prefer.  I am firm believer in simplicity often being the best and most practical answer, which is why I prefer a four-in-hand.  It really is a preference; my one piece of cautionary advice - DO NOT use a knot so big that it engulfs your neck.  It looks ridiculous, and a tie is supposed to compliment the rest of your look, not over take it as the focal point.

Keep reading, sharing, and I'll keep em coming!

Quality vs. Quantity, AKA Good vs. Evil

So we've been chatting about the importance of a proper rotation.  We've talked about why you need multiple suits, plenty of shirts, and even have begun to touch on why this is important.  As you do just this, it becomes very easy to lose sight of a VERY important piece of this:

THE QUALITY OF YOUR CLOTHES IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE!!!

I can hear the objection now - I've heard it so many times in my profession - "I don't want to spend $10,000 on a suit - that's just ridiculous!"  If this was the only price for a quality good, then yes I would agree.  Right now in menswear there are more options than ever, and many of them are for extremely reasonable prices.  Cost is a very relative thing based on your income, and what you are comfortable spending, but spend a little extra to get better quality - it is ALWAYS worth it.

I am going to remain very careful in not pushing any single product or brand, this is for everyone, and I do not wish to limit the audience.  I have always maintained with my own clients, and myself, that your ideal rotation is not something you have to get to all at once.  If the choice comes down to purchasing 1 garment instead of 3, buy one quality piece that will last longer, fit better, and that will make you more comfortable.

Here are just some of the benefits that come with spending a few more of those $$$ on better quality:
-better fit
-better fabric (we'll touch more on this to come)
-better construction
-better details (protected friction points, reinforced stitching, rubberized waistband, etc)
-better look on you

Take an extra minute to consider if getting a lot for a little is really worth it to sacrifice all that!

Keep reading, keep sharing, and stay Suitably Dressed!

The Power of a Great Shirt

The suit has to be great, but you can't forget about what goes with it!  Before the jacket goes on, you have to slide your arms into a shirt, and even though the shirt is partially covered, it's a huge piece of your look.

It can change the entire dynamic from something fun or more casual, to the most conservative.  For men, we two major basics in shirting: You can NEVER go wrong with solid white, or light blue!  They are your staples, and EVERY man should have two of each - MINIMUM!!!

I suggest one in a standard cuff, and one with a french cuff.  This way you have a variety of ways to wear each color with a huge array of options on your pants and jacketing.

I broke down the rotation for suits in a very clear way - what about shirts?  Most (some exceptions of course) men are wearing a dress shirt at least five times each week which means you need A LOT.  By the time you have laundering or dry cleaning on these you need a good full rotation.  I would recommend two shirts for every jacket you have in your rotation, and then a few extra for the times you aren't wearing a jacket.  Seriously, you need more than 10 - because they get dirty, they get worn hard, and they need to be changed out frequently.

If you have never owned a well tailored shirt that actually fits you well - invest.  It's hard to understand until you have worn one, but you will likely never go back.  When you feel like a million bucks, you'll find you perform better - it has to start with the shirt.

Keep reading, sharing, and re-posting the blog - and feel free to leave feedback!  See you all soon!

CHEERS! To Friday night - raise your glass, up your class

It's Friday, which means it's time for a drink!  No matter your poison, no matter if it's a dinner, movie, or just drinks; take a minute to step your own game up and dress just a bit better tonight.  Not sure how, or what to wear?  Try this:

Stick to the classics - they're classics for a reason!  Sometimes simplicity is a man's best friend - black or navy jacket, clean white shirt, pair of nice fitting jeans.... BOOM, you're ready!

Top the whole thing off with a nice white pocket square, or add a dash of color with a vibrant square.  The extra little effort will go a long way with whoever you are with.

Leave me some feedback, give a little love, and follow the blog - if you keep reading it, I'll keep writing it!

Rotation, Rotation, Rotation!

So, got that first suit?  Hopefully you were sure to get a basic that gives you versatility.  I know what the next logical question is going to be - "well, how many suits should I have?"

There is no simple answer here, as the answer will vary depending on the individual.  As someone in the industry the easy answer is... can you EVER have enough?!  Alas, I know that answer doesn't work for most men, and Suitably Dressed is for most men.

Working within menswear I've heard this answered in many different ways, but they all start with the same fundamental question - How often do you wear a suit?  If your answer is every day (5 times each week) then one suit isn't going to cut it!  Some people in the industry will tell you 1 suit for each day you need to wear one, and then an extra 2 (for those times that one is being cleaned or pressed).  From everything I've learned about fabrics, construction of suits, etc. you really need a full 2 week rotation.

Made easy:
1 day per week = 2 suits
2 days per week = 4
3 days per week = 6
and so on...

You can wear your suits more frequently than this, and you can have less than a full two week rotation, but a suit NEEDS TIME TO RECOVER!  If it doesn't have time to bounce back properly, be prepared to need to replace it within a year or so - it's going to look shabby!  Look, there is a whole slew of reasoning behind why recovery time is important and why there are a variety of answers, but trust me there is importance in establishing a rotation - and besides you don't wear the same socks two days in a row do you?!

My initial intention was to also address shirts, shoes, etc.  I realized that this is too important a concept to gloss over, and I don't want these posts to get too long.  I promise I'll cover it!

Leave me some feedback, give a little love, and follow the blog - if you keep reading it, I'll keep writing it!

Start of a wardrobe

As I begin the direction of Suitably Dressed, it seems that the blog start should mirror a wardrobe start. So I will start with this: every self-respecting man absolutely must have at least one great suit!  The decision of custom versus off the rack is up to him (though I'm a huge proponent of custom), but you have to have something.

What should you be looking for?  This is the more important question. Timeless, classic, versatile, and FIT. Some people will tell you a good solid black, navy, or charcoal- I would recommend either the navy or charcoal for greater versatility, but it should be solid.  Gentlemen, it must fit. Some very quick pointers on fit for every man to pay attention to:

-shoulder pads should match up with your natural shoulder line
-the jacket should hug your body without squeezing it (good rule of thumb is that you should be able to slide a hand in the chest and stomach comfortably, but not with excessive room)
-the pants should be appropriately slim - these shouldn't feel like sweat pants

To best illustrate the importance of fit, I pulled an image from GQ that really drives the point:

Welcome, to Suitably Dressed!  As mentioned in my description, the goal here is to provide some of the basics for men to help create and fine tune their wardrobe.  I plan to cover an array of topics pertaining to a man's wardrobe, have guest blog spots, and over time cover topics that my followers want more information on.

So, what motivated me to create Suitably Dressed?  As a stylist and menswear enthusiast, I interact with others daily to help them achieve their wardrobe goals.  As I have learned more about menswear, I've discovered a plethora of sites and blogs dedicated to the highest fashion, and the men on the cutting edge of things.  What I quickly found was a lack of the basics.  I encounter many basic questions daily with clients and friends, and thought it was time to start providing an outlet for the people I don't see.

I know that there are sometimes many answers to the same question, and hope I can serve as a starting point for a larger conversation, and welcome your input and feedback!  So, welcome and enjoy!