Get Dressed for the Wedding, and the Season

First, I apologize for the long break!  I've been a bit busy with my personal life - apparently getting engaged and celebrating dips into your blogging time!

So, it's about that time of the year when weddings are in season and the eternal question about what to wear goes on.  There are certain times when it is easy - black tie required, black tie optional (which isn't optional).  However, there are a lot of situations that are a little harder to determine what you should be wearing; there is a Sunday wedding, beach wedding, outdoors, indoors, etc.  

The reality of the situation is that you can never really go wrong with a well tailored suit, regardless of the time or formality.  When you want to step up your game, and try something a little different, keep the situation in mind.

If the wedding takes place outdoors and in the middle of the summer heat there are some great options to consider in order to keep you looking good and sweat free at the same time.  Cottons and linens are now available in well tailored options.  Here are some easy breakdowns how to dress appropriately for the right wedding:

Outdoor afternoon:  keep it casual with a great blazer put together well.  Use a wool/linen blend to keep it a bit cooler, even think about a half-lined or deconstructed jacket to keep it lighter.

photo from zegna.com

Outdoor evening: a crisp suit, following normal  dress codes of darker colors and simple patterns; but try a mohair blend, or wool/silk blend.  These different fabric blends will help make it a bit cooler throughout the night.

Beach wedding:  shake it up and try some seersucker or cotton in a lighter color.

Sunday afternoon: These can be tricky, because you will inevitably find someone who comes in just slacks and a shirt.  Even if the bride and groom choose to celebrate in a more casual way, show some respect and put on a jacket and button up.

As much as you can avoid white (it's the brides day for that), and when in doubt keep it classic - dark navy, charcoal, and grays are always going to work well.  Just remember that when you are getting dressed for a wedding, you should try to look good for the people who's wedding you are celebrating.  

photo from nordstrom.com

photo from zegna.com

Spring Cleaning - your closet needs it too!

Ah spring time!  If you're in the majority of our wonderful country, it feels like a lifetime from now.  However, there is light at the end of the tunnel!  Here in Chicago we are actually supposed to get above freezing just in time for pitchers and catchers to start reporting to spring training.

Try using Goodwill or Salvation Army

If there is one thing that has forever been associated with spring time, it's spring cleaning.  A chance for a fresh start cleaning our homes, and making sure that we come out of our long winter hibernation.  It is also a time when I like to speak with my clients about spring cleaning in their wardrobes.

As a guy, I know all too well about having the shirt that has lingered for 10 years.  There is that pair of pants I haven't pulled off the hanger in 3 years, but for some reason just hang onto it anyway.  This spring, make a conscious decision to reevaluate your own wardrobe.

Whether it's retiring a few suits and replacing them with some updated versions, or maybe donating that sweater that your mom gave you a few years back that you never wore.  I walk my clients through a process where they can evaluate the value of their clothing, and whether it is adding or just collecting dust.

I use the following evaluation on all garments:
What kind of shape is it in? Good shape = move on to next question, bad shape = replace/remove
When is the last time you wore it?  More than 3 months = move to next question
Is it a seasonal item?  Yes = keep   No = move to next question
Does it hold sentimental value?  Yes = keep or find a way to display it  No = replace/remove

Once you have established what stays and what goes, then it's time to determine how you would like your wardrobe to work for you.  From there you have a much better grasp on how to move forward in.  Struggling with how to get started, or want help from someone?  There are professionals in most cities that, like me, can help you with the task - usually at little to no cost.

If clothes can help define the man, isn't it worth taking the time to make sure they are defining you the way you would like?

Proper Care: How often to dry clean

In an effort to add input from other professionals who work with men and their clothing, I am including an entry today from Billie Kersh - professional clothier with elevee lifestyle - on a topic she frequently discusses with her clients, caring for your clothes:

"You've just dropped several G's on bespoke suits.  Take the time to properly care for your investment so that it lasts a long, long time.

Men very commonly take their clothing to the dry cleaner too often.  Dry cleaning is a process that removes debris and dirt particles, but it should not be overdone because the chemicals used can be harsh on clothing.

How often you dry clean your suits depends on many factors.  Including: how many suits are in your roation, how often you wear them, whether you've soiled the fabric or gotten it sweaty, and outside factors such as light, smoke, or food.  In general, I recommend dry cleaning no more than once every 60 days; however, I've even heard it's best to only dry clean once a year.  The best advice is to dry clean your clothes only when it's absolutely necessary.

If you spill wine or food on a garment, take it to be spot cleaned as quickly as possible.  Other than that, brushing it with a suit brush and hanging it on a proper hanger in a well-ventilated area in between wearings will do the trick.

Feel free to steam your suits or take them in for a sponge and press in between cleanings to reshape and reset the clothing.  In this process, a small amount of moisture is added to the cloth without any chemicals, so the wool fibers are not damaged and odors are released.

Keep in mind that just because you wore the suit, doesn't necessarily mean it's dirty.  If your shirt fits properly, your jacket doesn't really touch your body at all.  Wool is a natural fiber that is inherently antimicrobial, so hanging it in a well ventilated area for at least a week before wearing it again allows the fabric to naturally defunk and reset itself.

Maintenance actions in between dry cleanings to extend the life of your suits:
-brush your suit after each wearing
-steam it (I recommend the jiffy home steamer)
-spot cleaning
-take it in for sponge and press at a cleaner or tailor shop
-don't iron the cloth directly.  If you feel the need to iron, use a medium setting and place a clean white cotton cloth between the iron and jacket"

Billie Kersh is a professional clothier with elevee bespoke in Chicago, IL and can also be followed on twitter @chisuitgirl

I would like to add that I personally, dry clean my suits 2x per year, with regular steaming, or additional cleaning only if I spill on them.

Your big day- it's not time for a rental!

Alright everyone, happy new year! I've thought a lot about this post, and seeing that I'm going to my cousin's wedding this coming weekend I decided it was time to discuss this. If you, or someone you know is planning their wedding, please, please, please have them read this.
 Let's talk about if you should be renting when you say "I do"

Pros: Let start here. What are the pros of renting a tuxedo/suit for you wedding? The honest answer here is, NOTHING!!! There is no reason to rent for your wedding. The only argument that can even be made for this is economics, but I'm hoping to drive that out of your mind. The cost of a rental is $150, on the very lowest end, to $500+ on the higher end. This is the only argument that can be made for renting, and it is a terrible argument.

 Cons: Let's look at the most obvious one here- it looks TERRIBLE!!! I have never seen a rental that I looked at and said, "wow, he looks great in that tux!" Guys, you are going to have these pictures for the rest of your life, you are going to show them to your children; and you want to look like you wear clothing that doesn't even fit?! The fit is usually off from head to toe (boxy shoulders, baggy pants, etc). Not to mention you are wearing something that countless other people have also worn, partied in, and done who knows what in. Talk to your cleaner about any rentals they get- you instantly get stories of the vomit, urine, and unknown stains that they have to try and get out. Why sour your special day with that? 

Why you should purchase something... Yes buy something new!
Depending on the source you use, the average wedding cost more than $20,000. Spending an extra few hundred on what you wear isn't going to break this. Your wife to be is spending, on average, just over $1,000 on her dress- that she will never wear again! Don't stand next to her in a $200 rental.
At least go with a suit if you want something you will use frequently.  Choosing a suit that fits over a rental tuxedo results is a far better look. Sticking with classic styles, your tux or suit can stay in style for many years to come, and can be worn again for a special night in the future.

image from http://elevee.com 

 Tuxedo: keep it classic- black is your safest bet. stay classy with a peak lapel, one button jacket and traditional fitting pants (no super tight pants here)
Expect to pay around $800 or more here for something good.

 Suit: keep it versatile and simple- black, charcoal, or navy (unless a theme or destination wedding is in your future). You can keep the simplicity of a notch lapel, 2 button, and wear the pants the way you like.
Expect to pay $500 and up based on cloth, and type (rack, M2M, or custom)

 It can be as little as a couple hundred dollars, but it is worth far more than that. After all, you only get married once right?!

Get Dressed for the Holidays: one pant leg at a time

I apologize for the seriously long delay between posts.  Just like for everyone else, the holiday time gets busy!  Between family, friends, gift buying, and dinner outings, the calendar has a way of filling up awfully quick.

I speak with a lot of my own clients about what they are wearing for their variety of holiday festivities.  There are usually a plethora of events going on, and the last thing you want to do is to wear the same thing repeatedly.

So, what should you wear?  Well, there is no singular answer.  Everyone does things a little bit different, but the holidays are supposed to be a special time of the year, and it's time that men started dressing in a way that reflects this.  Put some extra care into your wardrobe choices for the holidays:

Office Party:
Let's start with the fact that you need to be work appropriate (though I would hope this is self evident), and now kick it up just a little.  Are you in a business casual environment?  How about a great jacket to step up your daily attire?  If you're in a more formal environment, maybe pull out that special suit that you keep for the big meetings.  The point is, this is different than a normal day - and maybe a chance to impress someone: it's a great chance to impress a boss, or coworker you've had your eye on! ;)

photo from http://www.elevee.com

Christmas (Eve) Dinner:
Again, seize the opportunity to pull out some of the nicer things in the closet.  I'm a firm believer that a jacket it a great option again here.  Many people are at a relative or close friend's house. Show some respect to the host by doing more than a dress shirt with jeans.  Throw a beautiful wool or cashmere sweater over the top, wear a jacket and put some slacks on.  Show your appreciation by making sure you don't show up empty handed, and put some care into your appearance for them.

Make sure you feel like this man when it's time to get dressed

Christmas Mass:
I hope everyone out there is paying attention.... WEAR A SUIT!  I understand how casual many churches have become.  Take a cue from the many other religions out there during any of their high holiday services and dress the part!  No exceptions - even if you aren't very religious, show the respect than it deserves.

New Years Eve Party:
Many parties will have a dress code, or a theme.  Adhere when applicable, and take it up a notch when given the chance.  Great time for a dinner jacket - maybe velvet with some fun color, or a high fashion piece.  Pick some thing fun, something that stands out, and something that has you feeling like Bond, James Bond!  Might as well ring in the new year looking great before it starts to get sloppy!

Photo from Esquire

Some Key No-Nos:
Leave the overly holiday themed clothing in the closet.  It's not an ugly sweater party...
Anything that light up should be left on the tree
If it's cold layer appropriately - you can ruin a great look with that ski jacket
Snow boots are for the snow

Let's get ready to rumble!!! Style vs Fashion

So my huge challenge here is to try and do this without writing a 10+ page essay.
Let's start here:
Style: a mode of fashion, as in dress, especially good or approved fashion; elegance; smartness.
Fashion: a prevailing custom or style of dress, etiquette, socializing, etc.: the latest fashion in dresses.

 So what does this mean for you when you are building out your wardrobe? What's the difference? What should you be paying attention to?

 Style, is typically associated with a timeless, pervasive look that stands the test of time. A man with great style doesn't pay particular attention to what is on the edge of fashion, but rather can achieve that effortless and timeless look. This is most commonly seen in a man that has developed his own taste, and his own sense of self. This isn't about wearing the finest suits, or only wearing a certain color. This has to do with catering your look to your life, and wearing it well. The most recognizable style icons are men who have their own flair, but pull it off seamlessly- think Bond, Steve McQueen, or more recently look at Brad Pitt, George Clooney, and the emergence of stars like Justin Timberlake. Pull together your look, and use things that stand the test of time- well fitted shirts, jackets, pants. Items that aren't overly flashy, but complimentary.

Fashion, on the other hand is the most up to date and edgy. Think about skinny lapels and skinny ties of the past couple years, and now the wide lapels on jackets. This is the skinny pants, or the large rimmed glasses. These things all come and go with time, sometimes trends work their way back in or out. These are the things that will get noticed almost all the time (for good and bad). If you want to be on top of things at all times, fashion is a huge piece of it. In this case look at the likes of Dwayne Wade, Joseph Gordon Levitt, and pop stars. Fashion is trendy, quickly changing, and therefore quickly out of favor.

 So, the important question- which should you pay more attention to? The honest answer here is hat both have their place, and I think utilizing fashion in creating your style can have incredible results. However, you need to find your style, and while you figure that out (and start up a wardrobe)- stick to classic styles rather than fashion trends. Use fashion in small doses in order to help elevate your look and find that style. Here's a great example- right now loud, bright socks are in fashion and bright pocket squares. These are great ways to add some fashion to a classic style. You don't have to grab every trend in order to be on point- in fact I would argue that most people attempting high style just look silly. Use fashion ideas to bring out your personal style- a long and everlasting look that compliments your life. Just understand that as you build your own personal wardrobe, if you want longevity get style not fashionable.

When do I button all buttons on my jacket?!

In a word.... NEVER!

I've seen too much of this lately to ignore it here on Suitably Dressed, so we're going to talk about it - and before we begin, I apologize for the delays between posts here, life has gotten a little hectic and even though I want to do a bit more here, it's just been tough lately - it'll smooth out, I promise!

So back to the topic at hand.  The general rule of thumb for all those buttons on your jacket is that the very bottom button you don't button... like, ever!  It's not how it's meant to be, and quite frankly it just looks weird when people do this.  Two buttons on your jacket - only the top one gets buttoned.  Three buttons?  Follow the SAN rule: Sometimes, Always, Never (from top to bottom button).One button jacket? Alright, you got me; this is the one caveat to the rule, obviously you have to button them all when there is only one.



Look if you button every button on that jacket, I don't care how well it fits, how well it is coordinated, you ruined your whole look.  This is something you should feel good in, look good in, not like you are restraining yourself.

The general rules to follow is as follows: sitting down - unbutton your jacket.  standing up - button your jacket.  This is as simple as it gets.  Keep yourself well put together, and enjoy the holiday season without fussing about that bottom button!